Narrativas de artesanato e autenticidade na formação do mercado de cerveja artesanal no Brasil

Autores

  • Andrey Sgorla Università di Scienze Gastronomiche di Pollenzo

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.21669/tomo.v42.17720

Palavras-chave:

Artesanato, Autenticidade, Cerveja Artesanal , Narrativas, Mercado

Resumo

O crescimento do mercado de cerveja artesanal envolve uma série de atrativos para produtores e consumidores, incluindo um alto grau de autonomia, paixão e trabalho como hobby em pequenas empresas, onde os cervejeiros usam “conhecimento intuitivo”, bem como flexibilidade de tempo para fazer cervejas artesanais. Como produtos artesanais, as cervejas artesanais têm sido associadas a marcadores de identidade e noções de “autenticidade”, com uma gama de atributos econômicos e culturais. O estudo se utiliza de entrevistas em profundidade, observação participante em visitas a cervejarias e participação em festivais e acompanhamento de publicações nas redes sociais. No artigo, exploramos como as narrativas dos microcervejeiros brasileiros sobre artesanato e autenticidade são utilizadas como dispositivos de mercado para legitimar seus produtos, ganhando reconhecimento dentro do mercado e construindo relações de consumo no contexto do novo espírito do capitalismo. As estratégias de narração não apenas “enriquecem” o produto; elas também incentivam os indivíduos a localizar o prazer por meio do trabalho e a perceber o valor em termos de identidade e estilo de vida, em vez de termos monetários.

Downloads

Não há dados estatísticos.

Biografia do Autor

Andrey Sgorla, Università di Scienze Gastronomiche di Pollenzo

Andrey Felipe Sgorla é antropólogo empresarial brasileiro e italiano, mestre e doutor em Ciências Sociais pela PUCRS (Brasil). Em minha tese de doutorado, desenvolvi uma investigação pioneira sobre a formação do mercado de cervejas artesanais no Brasil. Em novembro de 2020, iniciei um segundo doutorado em Aprendizagem e Inovação em Contextos Sociais e de Trabalho na Universidade de Siena (Itália). Minha pesquisa etnográfica é sobre a profissionalização nos setores neoartesanais a partir das experiências empreendedoras de mestres cervejeiros na Itália, Portugal e Espanha. Atualmente, sou pesquisador em antropologia no projeto "North West Digital and Sustainable (NODES)" da Universidade de Ciências Gastronômicas de Pollenzo (Itália), onde realizo pesquisas em antropologia econômica e empresarial por meio de abordagens etnográficas relacionadas ao empreendedorismo no setor de alimentação. Além disso, fui professor visitante nas Universidades de Lisboa (Portugal), Vic (Espanha) e Federal de Pelotas (Brasil).

Referências

Adaval, Rashmi; Robert S. Wyer Jr. The role of narratives in consumer information processing. Journal of Consumer Psychology 7.3,1998, p. 207-245. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1207/s15327663jcp0703_01

Banet-Weiser, Sarah. Authentic™, New York, USA: New York University Press, 2012.

Banks, Mark. Craft labour and creative industries. International Journal of Cultural Policy, 16 (3), p. 305-321, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/10286630903055885

Beckert, Jens; Bronk, Richard (Ed.). Uncertain futures: Imaginaries, narratives, and calculation in the economy. Oxford University Press, 2018. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198820802.001.0001

Berger, Peter; Luckman. Thomas. La construcción social de la realidad. Amorrortu-Murguía, 1986.

Beverland, Michael B.; Farrelly, Francis J. The quest for authenticity in consumption: Consumers’ purposive choice of authentic cues to shape experienced outcomes. Journal of consumer research, v. 36, n. 5, p. 838-856, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1086/615047

Boltanski, Luc; Esquerre, Arnaud. The economic life of things. Commodities, collectibles, assets. New Left Review, n. 98, 2016, p. 31-54.

Bourdieu, Pierre. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1984.

Brewer, John. Ethnography. McGraw-Hill Education (UK), 2000.

Brown, Stephen. Brands and branding. Sage, 2016.

Cabras, Ignazio; Lorusso, Marco; Waehning, Nadine. Measuring the economic contribution of beer festivals on local economies: The case of York, United Kingdom. International Journal of Tourism Research, v. 22, n. 6, 2020, p. 739-750. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/jtr.2369

Cook, Zachary M. Craft brewing festivals. In: Craft Beverages and Tourism, Volume 2. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham, 2018, p. 141-157. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-57189-8_9

Cope, Suzanne. Small batch: Pickles, cheese, chocolate, spirits, and the return of artisanal foods. Rowman & Littlefield, 2014.

Danson, Mike et al. Microbrewing and entrepreneurship: The origins, development and integration of real ale breweries in the UK. The International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation, v. 16, n. 2, 2015, p. 135-144. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5367/ijei.2015.0183

DeSoucey, Michaela; Demetry, Daphne. The dynamics of dining out in the 21st century: Insights from organizational theory. Sociology Compass, v. 10, n. 11, 2016, p. 1014-1027. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/soc4.12417

Elias, Micheline; Aufaure, Marie-Aude; Bezerianos, Anastasia. Storytelling in visual analytics tools for business intelligence. In: IFIP Conference on Human-Computer Interaction. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg, 2013, p. 280-297. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-40477-1_18

Elzinga, Kenneth G.; Tremblay, Carol Horton; Tremblay, Victor J. Craft Beer in the USA: Strategic connections to macro-and European brewers. In: Economic perspectives on craft beer. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham, 2018, p. 55-88. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-58235-1_2

Flack, Wes. American microbreweries and neolocalism:" Ale-ing" for a sense of place. Journal of cultural geography, v. 16, n. 2, 1997, p. 37-53. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/08873639709478336

Fox Miller, Chloe. The contemporary geographies of craft‐based manufacturing. Geography compass, v. 11, n. 4, 2017, p. e12311. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/gec3.12311

Garavaglia, Christian; Swinnen, Johan. Economics of the craft beer revolution: A comparative international perspective. In: Economic perspectives on craft beer. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham, 2018, p. 3-51. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-58235-1_1

Gatrell, Jay; Reid, Neil; Steiger, Thomas L. Branding spaces: Place, region, sustainability and the American craft beer industry. Applied Geography, v. 90, 2018, p. 360-370. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apgeog.2017.02.012

Giddens, Anthony. As conseqüências da modernidade. Unesp, 1991

Hay, Robert. Sense of place in developmental context. Journal of environmental psychology, v. 18, n. 1, 1998, p. 5-29. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1006/jevp.1997.0060

Hede, Anne-Marie; Watne, Torgeir. Leveraging the human side of the brand using a sense of place: Case studies of craft breweries. Journal of Marketing Management, v. 29, n. 1-2, 2013, p. 207-224. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2012.762422

Hughes, Christina. Gender, craft labour and the creative sector. International journal of cultural policy, v. 18, n. 4, 2012, p. 439-454. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/10286632.2011.592187

Hughes, Mine Üçok; Bendoni, Wendy K.; Pehlivan, Ekin. Storygiving as a co-creation tool for luxury brands in the age of the internet: A love story by Tiffany and thousands of lovers. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 2016.

Ingold, Tim. Making: Anthropology, archaeology, art and architecture. Routledge, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203559055

Kaltenborn, Bjørn P. Nature of place attachment: A study among recreation homeowners in Southern Norway. Leisure Sciences, v. 19, n. 3, 1997, p. 175-189. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/01490409709512248

Knorr-Cetina, Karin D. The micro-sociological challenge of macro-sociology: towards a reconstruction of social theory and methodology. 1981.

Knorr Cetina, Karin, and Bruegger, Urs. Global microstructures: The virtual societies of financial markets. American journal of Sociology, 107.4, 2002, p. 905-950. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1086/341045

Kozinets, Robert V. Management netnography: The art and science of online cultural business research. The SAGE Handbook of Qualitative Business and Management Research Methods. Londres: SAGE, 2018. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780198796978.003.0007

Kozinets, Robert V. On netnography: Initial reflections on consumer research investigations of cyberculture. ACR North American Advances, 1998.

Lahire, Bernard. Retratos sociológicos: disposições e variações individuais. Artmed Editora, 2004.

Lane, Jamie; Woodworth, R. Mark. The sharing economy checks in: An analysis of Airbnb in the United States. CBRE Hotel’s Americas Research, 2016.

Latour, Bruno; Woolgar, Steve. Laboratory life: the social construction of scientific facts. Beverly Hills: Sage, 1979.

Lindholm, Charles. Culture and authenticity. Blackwell Pub., 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/acprof:oso/9780195327953.003.0013

Luckman, Susan. Craft and the creative economy. Springer, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137399687

Mancuso, Joan; Stuth, Karen. Storytelling and marketing: The perfect pairing. Marketing Insights, v. 26, n. 3, 2014, p. 18-19.

Mintel. European wine drinkers seek brand stories, but mostly in vain, 2017. Disponível em: http://www.mintel.com/blog/drink-market-news/european-wine-drinkers-seek-brand- storiesbut-mostly-in-vain /Acesso 21 de janeiro 2020.

Muniesa, F., Fabian; Millo, Yuval; Callon, Michel. An introduction to market devices. The sociological review, v. 55, n. 2_suppl, 2007, p. 1-12. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-954X.2007.00727.x

Murray, Douglas W.; O'Neill, Martin A. Craft beer: Penetrating a niche market. British Food Journal, 2012. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/00070701211241518

Neff, Gina; Wissinger, Elizabeth; Zukin, Sharon. Entrepreneurial labor among cultural producers:“Cool” jobs in “hot” industries. Social semiotics, v. 15, n. 3, 2005, p. 307-334. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/10350330500310111

Ocejo, Richard E. Masters of craft. In: Masters of Craft. Princeton University Press, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.23943/princeton/9780691165493.001.0001

Paxson, Heather. The ‘art’and ‘science’of handcrafting cheese in the United States. Endeavour, v. 35, n. 2-3, 2011, p. 116-124. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.endeavour.2011.05.004

Paxson, Heather. The Life of Cheese. University of California Press, 2012. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/california/9780520270176.001.0001

Pine II, B. Joseph; Gilmore, James. Integrating experiences into your business model: five approaches. Strategy & Leadership, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/SL-11-2015-0080

Pitts, Eric R.; Witrick, Katherine. Brewery Packaging in a Post-COVID Economy within the United States. Beverages, v. 7, n. 1, p. 14, 2021. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/beverages7010014

Pozner, Jo-Ellen; De Soucey, Michaela; Sikavica, Katarina. Bottle Revolution: Constructing Consumer and Producer Identities in the Craft Beer Industry? IRLE Working Paper No.118-14.

Reid, Craft breweries, adaptive reuse, and neighborhood revitalization. Problemy Rozwoju Miast, v. 57, p. 5-14, 2018.

Reid, N. Neil. Craft breweries, adaptive reuse, and neighborhood revitalization. Problemy Rozwoju Miast, v. 57, 2018, p. 5-14. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/udi-2018-0013

Schnell, Steven M. Food miles, local eating, and community supported agriculture: Putting local food in its place. Agriculture and Human Values, v. 30, n. 4, 2013, p. 615-628. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-013-9436-8

Schnell, Steven M.; Reese, Joseph F. Microbreweries, place, and identity in the United States. In: The geography of beer. Springer, Dordrecht, 2014, p. 167-187. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-7787-3_15

Schnell, Steven M.; Reese, Joseph F. Microbreweries as tools of local identity. Journal of cultural geography, v. 21, n. 1, 2003, p. 45-69. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/08873630309478266

Sennett, Richard. The craftsman. Yale University Press, 2008.

Sikavica, Katarina; Pozner, Jo-Ellen. Paradise sold: Resource partitioning and the organic movement in the US farming industry. Organization Studies, v. 34, n. 5-6, 2013, p. 623-651. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0170840613479225

Slater, Don. Cultura do consumo & modernidade–Exame. São Paulo: Nobel, 2002.

Smith Maguire, Jennifer et al. Storytelling and Market Formation: An Exploration of Microbrewers. In: Chapmen, N., Lellock, J.S. and Lippard, C. (Eds) Untapped: Exploring the Cultural Dimensions of Craft Beer. West Virginia University Press, 2017, p. 19-38.

Smith Maguire, J. Jennifer. Provenance as a filtering and framing device in the qualification of wine. Consumption Markets & Culture, v. 16, n. 4, 2013, p. 368-391. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/10253866.2012.662829

Smith Maguire, Jennifer. The taste for the particular: A logic of discernment in an age of omnivorousness. Journal of Consumer Culture, 18(1): 2018, p. 3-20. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540516634416

Spracklen, Karl; Laurencic, Jon; Kenyon, Alex. ‘Mine’sa Pint of Bitter’: Performativity, gender, class and representations of authenticity in real-ale tourism. Tourist Studies, v. 13, n. 3, 2013, p. 304-321. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1468797613498165

Stern, B. B. Barbara B. What does brand mean? Historical-analysis method and construct definition. Journal of the academy of marketing science, v. 34, n. 2, 2006, p. 216-223. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0092070305284991

Thurnell-Read, T. Thomas. ‘Real ale’enthusiasts, serious leisure and the costs of getting ‘too serious’ about beer. Leisure Sciences, v. 38, n. 1, 2016, p. 68-84. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/01490400.2015.1046618

Thurnell-Read, Thomas. Beer and belonging: Real Ale consumption, place and identity. In: Drinking Dilemmas. Routledge, 2015, p. 61-77. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315679914

Thurnell-Read, Tom. Craft, Tangibility and Affect at Work in the Microbrewery. Emotion, Space, and Society, 13, 2014, p. 46-54. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emospa.2014.03.001

Urry, John. Consuming places. London: Routledge. 1995.

Woolverton, Andrea E.; Parcell, Joe L. Can niche agriculturalists take notes from the craft beer industry. Journal of Food Distribution Research 39(2): 2008, p. 50–65.

Zelizer, Viviana. A negociação da intimidade. Petrópolis: Ed. Vozes, 2011.

Publicado

2023-08-01 — Atualizado em 2023-08-01

Versões

Como Citar

Felipe Sgorla, A. (2023). Narrativas de artesanato e autenticidade na formação do mercado de cerveja artesanal no Brasil. Revista TOMO, 42, e17720. https://doi.org/10.21669/tomo.v42.17720

Edição

Seção

Artigos Livres